Mossoro

Introduction

Mossoró lies in the interior of Rio Grande do Norte, a sprawling municipality that has earned recognition as the capital of the Brazilian semi-arid region. It is the largest municipality in the state by area, covering roughly 2,100 square kilometres, and sits about 281 kilometres from the state capital, Natal.

Among Rio Grande do Norte's cities, Mossoró is the second most populous, trailing only Natal, and it is the most populous city in the state's interior. That combination of vast territory and inland prominence shapes what you can expect: a sertão city with a character distinct from the coastal capital.

Getting there

Mossoró is served by an airport with connections to several cities in the Northeast. Azul Conecta operates flights to Fortaleza and Natal, while Azul Brazilian Airlines flies to Recife. You can also reach these same destinations by car if you prefer to drive.

Long-distance buses are the main overland option. Services run almost hourly to Natal, a trip of about four hours, and every two hours to Fortaleza, also roughly four hours, operated by Guanabara and Nordeste. Nordeste also runs five buses a day to Aracati, about an hour and a half away, where you can connect onward to Canoa Quebrada, plus one overnight bus to João Pessoa. For shorter trips, shared taxis run to Tibau.

Getting around

Mossoró has no metro, tram or urban rail network, so plan your movements around road transport. Local buses exist but are not a good option for visitors: their routes, stops and schedules are unclear, and you can expect to spend time working out where to board and where a given line goes. Taxis and moto-taxis, by contrast, are very easy to find. Moto-taxis carry you on the back of the driver's motorcycle and are a cheap alternative to taxi cabs, though they can be dangerous and the helmets provided are usually dirty. Ride-hailing apps are not described as operating here, so treat taxis and moto-taxis as your main on-demand options. Given how large the municipality is, walking is best kept to short local trips rather than crossing the city.

If you arrive by air, note that there is no dedicated airport bus, shuttle or rail link into the centre, so arrange a taxi, moto-taxi or pre-arranged transfer for the final leg. Long-distance buses are relatively frequent: roughly hourly services to Natal and every-two-hour services to Fortaleza, both trips of about four hours, plus five daily buses to Aracati, which is a convenient connection point for Canoa Quebrada, and one night bus to João Pessoa. For shorter regional hops, shared taxis run to Tibau, which is useful if you are heading to the coast.

Where to stay

Most of Mossoró's accommodation clusters along the highway near the bus station, which suits travellers arriving by road or passing through. If you'd rather base yourself near the university, there are options in Sabinos, close to UFERSA.

• Ibis Mossoró — on Rua Manoel Hemetério, a reliable chain choice in the city.
• Thermas Hotel Mossoró — on Av. Lauro Monte, this hotel is built around thermal baths and has a water playground for children plus conference facilities; note that the rooms are somewhat outdated.

Food & drink

For a concentrated taste of the city, head to the Praça de convivência, an open-air mall near the centre where bars, restaurants, snack bars and fast-food joints cluster together. It's a lively, safe area, with local food and drinks on offer and live music at weekends. For regional cooking served in something like a street-market setting, try Kobal. Tratoria covers Japanese, Italian and other cuisines in a pleasant spot, also with weekend live music. If you want something quick and unpretentious, Sebosão does sandwiches and drinks in a decidedly no-frills setting.

When it comes to drinking, Cândidos, Tratoria and Acapulcos are among the named spots, and plenty of local pubs stay open all night long.

What to see and do

Mossoró's sights are modest in scale and easy to cover on foot. The Memorial da Resistência is the standout, with photographs of the outlaw Lampião and his gang, a reminder of the city's place in the history of resistance to his band. A petrol museum tells the story of the industry that shaped the region. Downtown, the churches stand within walking distance of one another, so you can move between them without arranging transport.

Three days in Mossoro

Day one: Base yourself in Mossoró and get your bearings in the centre. Praça Kobal is a good starting point for a wander, and Rua Manoel Hemetério gives you a feel for the city's everyday streets. For a bite, look for Tratoria, and if you want a sit-down meal in a hotel setting, the Ibis Mossoró and Thermas Hotel Mossoró are among the options. Local taxis and moto rides make it easy to move between points without a car.

Day two: Head out of town toward Tibau for a change of scene, then loop back via the Rio Grande do Norte countryside. If you have time, the UFERSA area is worth a look for a sense of the city's academic side. Sabinos is another local name to keep in mind when asking around for where to eat. Given the heat, plan your walking for the cooler parts of the day and take it slow.

Day three: Use Mossoró as a springboard for the wider Northeast. Azul Conecta and Azul Brazilian Airlines connect the region, with Natal, Recife, Fortaleza, João Pessoa and Aracati among the places within reach; Canoa Quebrada and Guanabara sit along the coast for those extending the trip. If you are staying closer, a final morning around Av. Lauro Monte and the centre rounds things off before you move on.