Toledo
Introduction
Toledo is a municipality in the western region of the Brazilian state of Paraná, situated near Cascavel. It sits within one of the state's western population centres, making it a practical stop for travellers moving through this part of southern Brazil.
Before you go
Toledo's history reaches back to Roman occupation, followed by Visigoth and Muslim rule and the Reconquest in 1085; it served as the capital of the Spanish empire until the royal court moved to Madrid in the mid-1500s. The old town's winding, cobbled streets are often crowded with locals and tourists, and with a surprising number of cars and vans, so plan to explore on foot and allow time to get your bearings.
Because the entire city is a gazetted monument, you are not allowed to pick up or collect anything off the street; if you want a memento, buy one from a souvenir shop instead. The medieval streets are labyrinthine, so the main risk is getting lost, especially at night. For a better view of the ancient city, settle in for a local meal at one of the hotels across from the banks of the Tagus River.
Getting there
< p >Toledo is easily reached from Madrid by high-speed train. The AVE service from Madrid's Atocha station takes about half an hour to Toledo station, and you must specify your return time when you buy your ticket. Boarding begins twenty to thirty minutes before departure, and the gate closes five minutes before the scheduled time, so arrive early. In Madrid, you can buy railway tickets from vending machines, but avoid the red machines marked "Cercanías," which are for a different service. For foreign visitors, the Renfe website or a manned ticket booth is simpler; if you use a booth, go the day before, as your preferred seat or time may not be available. < p >From Toledo station, urban buses 5, 22, 61, and 62 stop on the street in front of the station and run to Plaza de Zocodover in the city center; pay the driver, and note that all passengers must exit at Zocodover, the last stop. The walk back down to the station takes about thirty minutes. City buses are blue, while a private company runs red buses outside the station on the same route as the number 5. Alsa buses also connect Toledo with Madrid's Plaza Elíptica bus station, on the grey Circular metro line, roughly every half hour until late evening; the trip takes about an hour. By car, Toledo is about seventy kilometers southwest of Madrid on the A-42 freeway, which is signposted "Toledo" and was formerly labeled the N-401. Expect spot congestion at peak hours, sometimes as far out as Parla. A tolled alternative, the AP-41, exists, but the time saved is usually not worth the toll.Getting around
Toledo's historic centre sits on a hill, and both the train station and the bus station are below it, so your first decision on arrival is how to climb up. From the train station, blue city buses stop on the street directly in front and run to Plaza de Zocodover, the hub of the local network and the natural orientation point for the old town; you pay the driver on board, and all passengers exit at Zocodover since it is the last stop. Red private buses also wait outside the station and cover the same route as Line 5 for a higher fare. From the bus station on Avenida Castilla la Mancha, the old town is a steep but picturesque walk of about twenty minutes, or you can leave the station, find the nearby bus stand and catch a bus heading to Plaza de Zocodover — Line 5 runs frequently and drops you off right in front of the plaza. Walking back down to the train station is a pleasant downhill stroll of around half an hour; going the other way, uphill, is naturally more effort.
- Buses are the main way to move between the lower city, the stations and the historic centre, with routes converging on Plaza de Zocodover. Fares are paid to the driver in cash, so keep small change handy.
- Once you are up in the old town, walking is the natural way around — the core is compact and most sights are within easy walking distance of one another. Expect hills and cobbles, and wear comfortable shoes.
- If you arrive by car, parking on the narrow cobbled streets of inner Toledo is virtually impossible except for brief loading and unloading stops. Use the large garage on Calle de Santa Úrsula, right in the centre, and continue on foot.
- Taxis are available at the train and bus stations and in the centre, a reasonable choice if you are arriving with luggage or don't fancy the uphill walk; ask at your accommodation or the station for a specific operator.
Where to stay
Toledo has plenty of accommodation, but rooms can still be hard to come by during the peak period from July to September. Many international visitors choose to see the city as a day trip from Madrid, while Spaniards treat it as a popular weekend destination — which pushes room rates noticeably higher on Fridays and Saturdays than midweek.
- Budget: Youth Hostel Los Pascuales sits on Cuesta de los Pascuales and is described as new, clean, safe and very central. Oasis Toledo, on Calle Cadenas, is an upmarket hostel with a kitchen and a terrace.
- Mid-range: Casona de la Reina, on C/ Armas, is a clean and classy hotel on the river with impressive views, though reaching the city means an uphill climb; breakfast is included and the wifi works well. Hotel Imperio is on Cadenas, close to Plaza Zocodover. Hesperia Toledo, on Marqués de Mendigorría, is newly refurbished with comfortable rooms a short distance from the centre, within walking distance of major attractions. Hotel Alfonso VI, near Plaza Zocodover, has some rooms with terraces overlooking the town and valley. Hotel Layos Golf lies about 10 km from Toledo and has a golf course and swimming pools.
- Splurge: The Parador de Toledo offers the best views of the town.
Food & drink
For eating in Toledo, start with the local specialities: carcamusas, a spicy Toledo dish you'll find done well at family taverns such as Bar Ludeña and La Mona Bar, both in the Old Town. The same neighbourhood is full of small, unassuming places with a local feel — La Cuesta de Toledo serves typical Castilian food, Bar Skala offers simple local dishes with gluten-free options, and La Casa de Damasco sits down a back alley with an extensive menu. Patata y Olé on Calle Tornerías does baked potatoes prepared differently from elsewhere, with vegan options. Note that paella is not Toledo's strong suit, since the city lies far inland.
Around Plaza República Dominicana you'll find homemade tapas at El Rinconcito, an extensive menu at Restaurante Trébedes, pizzas at Il Padrino, and a large terrace at La Ramona. Mid-range options include Barrio, El Cobertizo, Taberna el Botero, Lo Nuestro and La Fábrica de Harinas. For a splurge, Meson de la Orza serves lomo de orza, migas with lamb sweetbreads, roast suckling lamb and pig, partridge on arroz meloso, and a vanilla-infused fried milk pudding, alongside a wine list of 100 wines. Madre Tierra offers all-organic food with vegan and vegetarian dishes, smoothies and organic wines. For sweets, look for Mazapán, the glazed almond sweet of the Toledo region, sometimes decorated with pine nuts; Confiteria Santo Tomé is the best-known maker, and gets crowded before Christmas. For nightlife, try Picaro or Circulo de Arte, the latter in a renovated church with dance music and good batidos; O'Brien's draws tourists and students and serves Domas beer, made in Toledo.
What to see and do
Toledo rewards wandering as much as sightseeing. The old city is ringed by the River Tagus on three sides and medieval walls on the fourth, and it is small enough to cross on foot in well under an hour, so you are never far from the centre. Getting deliberately lost in the medieval streets is part of the experience; when you want to find your bearings again, simply head uphill and you will almost certainly arrive at the main square, Plaza de Zocodover. A map still helps if you would rather not rely on that trick.
The Cathedral is the centrepiece, sitting on top of the hill and deceptively large once you step inside, where gold reliefs, huge oil paintings and centuries of portraits of Toledo's cardinals lead to the baroque Transparente behind the main altar. Its art gallery holds works by Raphael, Rubens, Goya and Titian, along with El Greco's The Disrobing of Christ. El Greco appears again at the Iglesia de Santo Tomé, home to The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, and at the El Greco Museum, which pairs his paintings with period furnishings in a reconstructed 16th-century setting. Climb the twin spires of the Iglesia de los Jesuitas, set in the highest spot in the city, for views over Toledo and the surrounding region.
Toledo's layered past is written into its buildings. The Mosque of Cristo de la Luz began as a small mosque and was later converted into a church, leaving Mudejar architecture alongside early Christian wall paintings; the Iglesia del Salvador followed a similar path from mosque to church, with Mudejar, Visigoth and Roman elements combined. Two of Spain's three surviving pre-expulsion synagogues are here: Santa María la Blanca and El Tránsito, the latter housing the Sefardi Museum. In the Jewish quarter stands the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, built by Ferdinand and Isabella to house their tombs before they chose Granada instead. The Alcazar, a large square building on the edge of the old city, traces its origins to a Roman camp and later a Muslim keep, and now houses the Museum of the Army. For something smaller, the Museo Victorio Macho honours the local sculptor with an interior gallery and exterior gardens.
If you want a different angle on the city, Fly Toledo runs a zip line from Pont St Martin across the Tagus.
Three days in Toledo
Day one: Arrive in Toledo and get your bearings in the old city. From Madrid, the AVE runs from Atocha, and the Cercanías trains of Renfe also connect the two cities; buses run from Plaza Elíptica in Madrid, with Alsa serving the route. Once you are in Toledo, head for Plaza Zocodover, the central square and a natural starting point for exploring on foot. Toledo rewards walking: the city is compact, and its layers of Roman, Visigoth, Muslim, Reconquest and Spanish history are packed into the streets around you.
Day two: Give the day to the historic centre. Toledo sits above the Tagus River, and the views over the surrounding landscape of Castilla-La Mancha are part of the experience. Take your time in the old quarters, where the city's Roman, Visigoth, Muslim and Spanish past is present at every turn. Expect steep lanes and plenty of walking, so pace yourself and let the city unfold slowly rather than rushing between sights.
Day three: Use Toledo as a base for the wider region, or make your way back towards Madrid. Cascavel and Paran lie further afield in Brazil, so they are not day-trip options from here; keep your plans within Castilla-La Mancha and the connections to the capital. If you are returning to Madrid, the AVE from Toledo, the Cercanías, or buses from Plaza Elíptica and the Circular line give you several ways back. Boarding is straightforward, but check your route in advance so the return leg is as unhurried as the rest of your stay.