Guarapari
Introduction
Guarapari is a coastal town in Espírito Santo, Brazil, and a popular tourist destination. Its beach is known for the high natural radioactivity level of its sand.
Before you go
Guarapari is a beach holiday destination that draws heavily on visitors from landlocked Minas Gerais as well as from nearby Vitória and Vila Velha, so plan your trip with the rhythm of Brazilian holiday travel in mind. The resort is at its most fervent between Christmas and Carnaval, when demand and crowds reach their height; outside that stretch, school holidays through the year bring smaller peaks.
If you want a quieter stay, aim for periods outside both the Christmas-to-Carnaval run and the school breaks, and if you plan to visit during those busy windows, sort out your accommodation well ahead. The character of your trip will depend largely on when you go.
Getting there
Guarapari's own airport handles no regular passenger traffic, so you'll arrive through Vitória. Eurico Salles Airport (VIX) in the capital receives daily flights from most state capitals, served by LATAM, Gol and smaller carriers including Azul, TEAM and TRIP. From there, Alvorada runs two direct buses a day between the airport and Guarapari, taking about 1.5 hours. Alternatively, take an Alvorada bus to Vila Velha, get off near Terminal Vila Velha, and switch to a local bus to the airport — roughly 2 hours in total. A taxi is the quicker option if you'd rather not wait for the schedule.
By road, Guarapari sits on the coast south of Vitória along highway 60, the Rodovia do Sol, with easy access from BR-101 as well. You can pick up a rental car at Vitória Airport from companies such as Hertz and Localiza and drive south on the Rodovia do Sol. The intercity bus station, opened in 2015 and strikingly mall-like, lies about 7 km out of town on BR-101, which makes it a little inconvenient; long-distance services to Vila Velha can serve as an alternative. Main lines include Vitória (some via Vila Velha), Rio de Janeiro (three times daily, about 8 hours, via Campos and Niterói, by Kaissara) and Belo Horizonte. Frequent local buses run straight to downtown, only slightly slower than taxis, and Alvorada still runs hourly buses to Vitória via Vila Velha on the coastal route, more often at peak hours — so there's no need to go to the main bus station.
Getting around
Guarapari has no rail, metro or tram network, so plan on road-based transport for all local travel. Local buses are the mainstay: many run throughout the night, fares are inexpensive and you pay on board. Frequent services link the intercity bus station with downtown, taking only slightly longer than a taxi. For Vitória, Alvorada runs hourly buses via Vila Velha along the coastal route, more often at peak times, and you don't need to go to the main bus station to catch them.
Taxis have no meters; instead there should be a table showing fixed prices between neighbourhoods, so ask to see it or confirm your fare before setting off. They can be scarce in some areas — Praia do Morro has few — so don't count on hailing one at random in quieter neighbourhoods. Walking works well within the built-up coastal strip, where beaches are backed by shops and restaurants, but the town spreads out beyond it and the intercity bus station sits well outside the centre on BR-101, so you'll need wheels to cover the whole municipality. Expect more frequent service and more traffic in peak season, and a quieter rhythm outside it.
Where to stay
For most visitors, Praia do Morro is the best area to base yourself, with the widest choice of accommodation and the beach close at hand. The city centre also has plenty of hotels if you prefer to stay closer to the shops and services. If you're staying longer, furnished and equipped apartments for short-term rent are common, and real-estate agencies on nearly every corner can help you find one.
- Pousada MonaSol — Avenida Praiana 427, Praia do Morro, just inland from beach kiosk no. 13; completely refurbished in 2008.
- Pousada Enseada Verde — in Meaípe.
Food & drink
For a casual meal, the beach neighbourhood of Praia do Morro has plenty of budget options, including Restaurante Cia do Camarão on Avenida Praiana and Restaurante Ottoni's Express on Avenida Beira Mar. In Muquiçaba you can find home-style cooking at Delicias Da Maria and a casual bite at Restaurante e Lanchonete do Toninho, while Parque da Areia Preta has Restaurante Bom Paladar and Franguinho Saúde. Meaípe has Restaurante Da Janete for an easy meal. Mid-range choices cluster in Praia do Morro, such as Pascoal Grill, Casa do Torresmo Rotisseria and Kebab's Praia near the Morro da Pescaria entrance, with Kibe Lanches in the Centro and Restaurante Santo Sabor in Nova Guarapari. For a splurge, head to Meaípe, where Restaurante Cantinho do Curuca and Restaurante Gaeta sit along Avenida Beira Mar.
Drinking is beach-centred: kiosks line the sand and always have plenty of beer, caipirinhas and coconut water. Quiosque 16 at Parai do Morro has live acts most every night, and Restaurante Janaina by Quiosque 40 at Praia do Morro has live pagode every Friday and Sunday. Bar-come-club Tonteria is in the city centre, and in high season the nightlife concentrates in Meaípe, where Multiplace MAIS is large and stiffly priced. Casa Marracini in Meaípe is a restaurant specializing in Italian pasta, grilled meats and seafood.
What to see and do
Guarapari's main draw is the beach itself, and Praia do Morro is the place to settle in for a lazy day by the water. At the northern end of the beach you'll find a small nature reserve, where a 1.5-km trail leads through to a small deserted beach — a worthwhile walk if you want to trade the crowds for somewhere quieter.
For something more active, windsurfing equipment and small sailboats can be rented near Quisque 55 at Praia do Morro, and lessons are available if you're new to it; kayak rental is close by too. Not far from the beach, Pedreira Adventures makes use of a disused quarry as a kind of amusement park, and during high season it hosts parties in that unusual setting.
Three days in Guarapari
Day one: Arrive at Eurico Salles Airport (VIX) in Vitória, served by LATAM, Gol and Azul, or come in by road on the BR-101 from Rio de Janeiro, Campos, Niterói, Belo Horizonte or Vitória itself. Pick up a car from Hertz or Localiza at the airport, or take a bus from Alvorada or Terminal Vila Velha. Settle into Guarapari and spend the afternoon getting your bearings along the coast of Espírito Santo.
Day two: Give the day to the beach and the water. Guarapari's shoreline is the reason most visitors come, and the warm, sunny weather of the Brazilian coast makes it easy to spend hours by the sea. Keep the pace slow and let the afternoon drift.
Day three: Use the morning for a last look around before heading back. Return your car at Vitória Airport or catch a bus toward Vitória, Vila Velha or further afield into Minas Gerais. If your visit falls around Christmas or Carnaval, plan your transport well ahead, as frequent local services fill quickly.