Juazeiro do Norte
Introduction
Juazeiro do Norte is a city in the state of Ceará in northeastern Brazil, set in the semiarid sertão roughly 491 km south of the state capital, Fortaleza. Its municipality covers about 248 km² of this dry inland backcountry.
Come expecting a sertão setting rather than a coastal one: this is the interior of Ceará, far from the beaches and humid seaboard, so plan your visit around the region's arid character and its distance from the capital.
Getting there
Juazeiro do Norte is reached by bus or by plane. The bus station sits about 3 km from the centre, and Guanabara runs most of the departures. From there you can travel to Fortaleza in around 6 hours, or to Crateús with TransCeará/Pernambucana, which has three daily services taking 7–8 hours. Guanabara also connects the city with João Pessoa in about 11 hours, via Sousa (roughly 3 hours), Patos and Campina Grande (about 9 hours). A taxi from the bus station into the centre is available.
By air, Gol operates daily flights to Fortaleza, Petrolina, Recife, Brasília and São Paulo.
Getting around
Walking works well in the centre of Juazeiro do Norte, where most of what you will want to see clusters around Praça Padre Cícero. That square is also your main boarding point for city buses: a great number of them pass by its western corner, where a terminal-like structure makes it easy to see which routes are coming and going. Outside the centre, distances grow and you will want a bus, taxi or ride-hailing car.
- Taxis are readily available and convenient for short hops, such as between the bus station and the centre; ride-hailing apps are also practical, especially when buses are infrequent or you are carrying luggage.
- For Crato, use the Cariri Metro commuter rail line rather than negotiating a road journey; it is the most straightforward way to travel between the two cities without a car.
- From Orlando Bezerra de Menezes Airport, taxis and ride-hailing are the most direct way into the centre, and the same options apply in reverse when you leave.
- The long-distance bus station sits a few kilometres from the centre, so plan on a taxi or a ride-hailing pickup at either end of your journey.
- Keep small change handy for bus fares and short taxi hops.
Where to stay
You'll find dozens and dozens of pousadas in the centre of Juazeiro do Norte, particularly around Praça Padre Cícero, so you can base yourself within easy reach of the square. The cheapest options cluster on a strip of Rua São José, one block off the square.
Food & drink
Eating out in Juazeiro do Norte is casual and inexpensive. For a quick bite, try Lanchonete Vitória on Avenida Padre Cícero, half a block from the square; it serves burgers and juices and is open from late afternoon into the evening.
- Lanchonete Vitória, Avenida Padre Cícero 438 — burgers and juices, late afternoon and evening.
For drinking, head to the simple open-air spots around Praça Padre Cícero. Barzinho do Zé, one block up from the square on Rua Padre Cícero, is a notch more sophisticated than its neighbours, serves lunch through late, and often has live music; it offers a set lunch and large beers.
- Barzinho do Zé, Rua Padre Cícero 498 — set lunch, large beers, often live music, lunch till late.
- Open-air bars around Praça Padre Cícero.
What to see and do
Most of what you will want to see in Juazeiro do Norte centres on the religious figure of Padre Cícero. On Horto, a hill roughly seven kilometres northwest of the centre, you will find a statue of Padre Cícero along with other dedications. To get there, take the Horto bus from Praça Padre Cícero; it leaves every hour on the hour. The Memorial Padre Cícero is made up mostly of pictures explaining his life and work, and entry is free.
If you are in town at the end of October, you will catch the Romaria, a religious festival that draws vast crowds of pilgrims into the city.
Three days in Juazeiro do Norte
Day one: Start in the centre of Juazeiro do Norte at Praça Padre Cícero, the square that anchors the city and gives you your bearings. Walking around the praça and the surrounding streets is the easiest way to settle in. For a bite, try Lanchonete Vitória, and in the evening head to Barzinho for a drink.
- Praça Padre Cícero
- Lanchonete Vitória
- Barzinho
Day two: Use the city as your base for the wider Cariri region. From Orlando Bezerra de Menezes Airport you can arrange transport, and taxis are available for trips further out. For Crato, the Cariri Metro connects the towns of the area. Keep Rua São José in mind as a street to explore on foot.
- Orlando Bezerra de Menezes Airport
- Cariri Metro
- Rua São José
Day three: Spend your last day along Avenida Padre Cícero, where you can eat and pick up supplies before leaving. If you are continuing your journey, connections run toward Fortaleza, Recife, Brasília and São Paulo, with Gol among the airlines serving the region, and buses from companies such as Guanabara and TransCear link Juazeiro do Norte with destinations including Crato, Pernambucana, João Pessoa, Sousa, Patos and Campina Grande.
- Avenida Padre Cícero
- Fortaleza, Recife, Brasília, São Paulo
- Guanabara, TransCear