Porto Seguro
Introduction
Porto Seguro sits in the far south of Bahia, Brazil, and holds a distinctive place in the country's history: in 1500 it was the first landing point of Portuguese navigators, principally Pedro Álvares Cabral. The area around the city, together with neighbouring Santa Cruz Cabrália and Eunápolis, is where that chapter of Brazilian history begins.
The municipality is a large one, covering roughly 2,287 square kilometres, so expect the city and its surrounding coastline to spread out rather than cluster tightly together.
Getting there
Porto Seguro Airport (BPS) is the main gateway for arrivals by air, served by Aerolíneas Argentinas, Azul Brazilian, Gol Brasil, LATAM Brasil, and Passaredo Linhas Aéreas. Aerolíneas Argentinas operates only international flights here, while Gol Brasil also runs an international service from Buenos Aires.
- By car, the BR-367 is the main road into town, connecting from Eunápolis about 60 km to the west, where it meets the BR-101. It also follows the coast south from Santa Cruz Cabrália to the north.
- By bus, travelling from within Brazil is cheaper than flying. You can take an overnight bus from Salvador, which takes around 12 hours.
Getting around
If you are staying in the downtown area, you can walk most places, and the historic Cidade Alta district is a natural area to explore on foot. It is even possible to walk down the hill from the bus station into downtown, but if you are unfamiliar with the city and carrying bags, take a taxi instead. Taxis are also the straightforward way to reach your accommodation from the airport. There is no rail, metro, or tram network, so all movement is by road, on foot, by boat or ferry, or by air.
- To get out of downtown, use the local bus system; buses also reach some outlying districts.
- To see Arraial d'Ajuda, take the ferry across the river and then catch a bus onward to Arraial.
- Long-distance buses serve the region, and if you are already in Brazil, a bus from a major city is cheaper than flying — Salvador, for instance, is connected by an overnight bus ride of around twelve hours.
- If you book tours, the operators provide transportation as part of the package.
- Buggies are a popular way to explore the area, with numerous reputable rental companies around the center of town; inspect the vehicle and confirm the terms before committing, as at least one operator has been reported to offer poorly maintained buggies with no compensation for a breakdown.
- By car, BR-367 is the main approach, linking Eunápolis and BR-101 to the west and Santa Cruz Cabrália to the north.
Where to stay
In the Centro, you can base yourself at a hotel on Rua do Cajueiro with a rooftop pool, poolside bar and sauna, plus clean rooms that come with a refrigerator and a balcony strung with a hammock. Breakfast is included and is a highlight of a stay there.
- Terra Brasil, Rua do Cajueiro 5, Centro — rooftop pool with bar, sauna, rooms with refrigerator and hammock balcony, breakfast included.
- Reserva Pataxó da Jaqueira — overnight stays with the Pataxós for a fuller experience than the daytime visit, with coffee in the morning; the location is remote and short on some comforts, so ask about anything you can't do without. Visit in the daytime first and ask to see the accommodations during the tour before reserving.
Food & drink
For Lebanese food, head to Expresso do Oriente on Avenida dos Navegantes. Near the ferries to Arraial d'Ajuda, in the Centro, Portinha is another option for a meal. Porto Seguro's nightlife is one of the main draws for young travellers, so plan on staying out late at least once during your visit.What to see and do
In Porto Seguro you can walk from downtown to a replica of Pedro Álvares Cabral's ship, which sits on the beach north of the centre; if it happens to be closed, the beach itself gives you the view. Up the hill near the bus station, the historic area holds some of the first houses and churches the Portuguese built in Brazil, and local guides at the top of the stairs offer decent tours, though finding one who speaks English is difficult. The most popular outing is the Recife de Fora tour, which at low tide takes you out to the reef to see its sea life — but be aware that the tour has you stand on the reef, which kills it, so joining in means contributing to its destruction. Instead, you can visit the Reserva Pataxó da Jaqueira, roughly 9 km north of downtown between the Barramares beach club and Coroa Vermelha, reached by a very rough, unpaved access road. There you see how the indigenous Pataxó live, walking the reserve with a guide who stops about a dozen times to explain crops, hunting, cooking, fishing and bedding; a Pataxó dance may be performed and kids sometimes get face painting. Wear comfortable footwear, bring an interpreter if you don't follow elementary academic Portuguese, and allow three to four hours, though the hike itself lasts about an hour and isn't strenuous for anyone in good condition. It's closed Sundays with minimal activity at lunch time, and Pataxó-made crafts are for sale. Other options include Pirata Island, the Arraial d'Ajuda Eco Parque water park across the river in Arraial d'Ajuda — check operating hours first, since in the off season it isn't open every day — and Praia do Espelho, where Curuípe has one of the country's best-rated beaches and you can stop at the indigenous village to see the sloths on the way. Diving is possible even though Porto Seguro isn't a diving destination: most trips go around Recife de Fora at shallow depths, with visibility of only a few metres, and Aqua Planet on Rua do Cais offers trips to the reef for certified divers and non-divers alike, with good equipment and a bilingual instructor.Three days in Porto Seguro
Day one: Arrive at Porto Seguro Airport (BPS), served by Azul Brazilian, Gol Brasil, LATAM Brasil, Passaredo Linhas Aéreas and Aerolíneas Argentinas from Buenos Aires. Taxis are available to take you into the Centro, where you can settle in and get your bearings. Spend the afternoon wandering the Cidade Alta, the historic upper town founded after Pedro Álvares Cabral's landing, and take in the Portuguese colonial architecture. In the evening, head to Rua do Cajueiro for dinner and a first taste of Bahian cooking.
- Arrive at BPS and transfer by taxi to the Centro
- Explore the Cidade Alta on foot
- Dinner along Rua do Cajueiro
Day two: Take a day trip south to Santa Cruz Cabrália, the site of Cabral's original landfall, where you can see the coral reefs and the remains of the old Portuguese settlement. Alternatively, head north to Arraial d'Ajuda, reached by ferry, for its beaches and relaxed streets. Long stretches of sand and calm water make this a good day for swimming and walking. Buggies are a common way to get around the beaches and back roads.
- Day trip to Santa Cruz Cabrália or Arraial d'Ajuda
- Beach time and swimming
- Return to Porto Seguro for the evening
Day three: Visit the Reserva Pataxó da Jaqueira, a Pataxós indigenous reserve where you can learn about traditional crafts, food and dance. If you prefer a slower start, have breakfast at Terra Brasil and then explore more of the Centro's shops and churches. In the afternoon, take a final walk along the waterfront before heading back to BPS for your departure. If you have time, Eunápolis and Salvador are further afield options by road.
- Morning at the Reserva Pataxó da Jaqueira
- Breakfast at Terra Brasil and Centro shopping
- Final waterfront walk before departure from BPS