Manama

Introduction

Manama is Bahrain's capital and largest city, and it has been an important trading centre in the Persian Gulf for a long time. Its population is diverse, a reflection of the city's history as a port and commercial hub.

That history includes periods of Portuguese and Persian control, a short invasion from the ruling dynasty of Saudi Arabia and a longer occupation by Oman, before Bahrain became an independent nation in 1971 after a period of British hegemony. Traces of these successive influences shape the city you'll encounter today.

Before you go

Manama has an arid climate, with little rain — most of it falling in the winter months — and high temperatures for much of the year. Summers are fiercely hot, with daytime highs well above what most visitors are used to, while winters are milder, though still warm by day. Plan your wardrobe and your daily rhythm around the heat rather than against it.

Bahrain is a conservative Islamic country, and visitors are expected to respect Islamic customs and laws regarding social relations, clothing and behaviour. Alcohol is not outlawed, but consumption is expected to take place on private premises such as nightclubs, away from public view. Violent crime is rare, but pickpocketing, bag snatching and burglaries are not unheard of, and travel advisories warn of possible terrorist attacks including bombings in public places, so keep your wits about you in crowded areas.

Getting there

All roads in Bahrain lead to Manama, so the main Bahrain article covers the wider details of arriving in the country. If you fly in, Bahrain International Airport (BAH) sits in the adjacent city of Muharraq. From there you can reach the Manama bus terminal on city bus lines A1 (which continues to the University), A2 (which continues to Isa), and the circular lines 10 and 11, which stop at various points in Manama and Muharraq. Taxis and rental cars are the other options from the airport.

Manama Terminal is the main bus station, with connections from all over Bahrain. The Bahrain Public Transport Company's website has schedules, route maps, fares and a route planner to help you plan your onward journey.

Getting around

Bahrain has no rail, metro or tram network, so you'll get around entirely by road or on foot. Bahrain Public Transport runs the city's bus network from Manama Terminal, the hub for connections across the country; the operator's website has schedules, route maps and a route planner. Route A1 links the airport and Manama every 20 minutes, while routes A2, 10 and 11 also serve the airport. Buy a paper single ticket on board, or pick up a Go Card from a ticket machine (including at the airport) for a lower single fare and a daily cap — but note that loaded credit is not refundable, transfers are not offered so you pay on each bus you board, and there are no discounts for children, students or elderly people. Weekly and 28-day passes exist, but only on a Personalised Go Card issued at bus terminal ticket offices, not the anonymous card from machines.

Taxis are expensive: expect surcharges on fares starting from the airport and from hotels, and always insist the meter is used or you will be ripped off. Renting a car is far less costly than relying on taxis, though driving styles may differ from what you're used to at home; Manama is a small city on a small island, so you won't get lost for very long, and a map is worth buying. Because the city is compact, walking works well for nearby points, but plan around the desert climate — extremely hot summers, mild winters and very low rainfall.

Where to stay

Manama's sleeping options cluster in a few districts. Juffair is the busiest mid-range hub, with several hotels offering pools, gyms and business facilities, plus apartment-style stays with one- to three-bedroom units and penthouses. The commercial and business district suits travellers who want to be near the souk and shopping centres, while the Seef district has its own cluster of hotels near the malls. Near the airport and the diplomatic quarter you'll find larger resort-style properties, some with private beaches and Arabic architecture.

Budget travellers have a handful of simple choices: a very cheap double behind Gold City (fairly clean but not quiet, and single women are not permitted), a basic three-star with free airport transfer, breakfast and wifi, and a central option with cafés, restaurants and a bar a short walk from the main souk. At the top end, expect large five-star complexes with multiple restaurants and bars, sea-view rooms, spas and pools; one long-standing property is gracefully aging, and another may be due a renovation, though its Japanese restaurant is a draw. Book ahead and confirm what's included, as airport transfers and breakfast vary by property.

Food & drink

Manama's eating spans cheap shawarma counters to five-star dining rooms, and many hotels keep their own restaurants and bars. For budget meals, head to Adliya, where cheap restaurants are plentiful: you can find generous Lebanese, Turkish and Persian cooking, quick shawarma, and a diner serving fish and chips and other snacks. Mid-range choices include a Filipino restaurant with a private function room and karaoke, a Paris-style café popular with expats and locals for large salads and cakes, an atmospheric Indian restaurant in Budaiya, a Portuguese chain serving Mozambican cuisine, and a Mexican place in Um Al Hassam with its own guitarist and vocalist most evenings. For a splurge, there is Lebanese food with daily buffets and live entertainment at the Gulf Hotel.

Nightlife is busy by Gulf standards, concentrated in Adliya, Hoora, Juffair and the Business District, with many places to drink inside hotels. You'll find Australian- and American-themed sports bars and dance clubs, a large Irish pub, mock-British pubs, and a Polynesian dining and drinking spot on the grounds of the Ritz Carlton. One private expat sports club is known for door staff more interested in keeping Arabs out than checking membership cards.

What to see and do

Start at Bab Al Bahrain, the Gateway of Bahrain on Customs Square in Central Manama, where the ground floor holds the tourist information office and a handicraft shop, and sightseeing bus tours leave from the building. Behind it, the Manama Souq is a network of small lanes lined with stores selling souvenirs, gifts and electronics, alongside gold and jewellery shops and tailors. Along the east coast, the Corniche al-Fateh is a seaside promenade with views of the skyscrapers to the south and planes taking off from the nearby airport, plus fun fair rides for children and shisha bars. In Jufair, the Al Fateh Grand Mosque is the country's largest place of worship, with a vast fibreglass dome and a National Library; tours are available in English and photography is permitted. The Bahrain National Museum on Al Fateh Highway covers the country's natural and cultural history, while the Bahrain Fort on the north coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site also known as Qalat Al Bahrain, was built in the 14th century on the site of Dilmun settlements and is lit at night; the adjacent Bahrain Fort Museum has an exhibition hall, a children's learning room and a cafe overlooking the sea. Further afield, the Barbar Temple archaeological site holds three temples, the oldest dating to 3000 BC, and Bait al Quran is an Islamic museum, library and art complex known for its rare Qur'anic manuscripts. The Manama Synagogue, the only remaining synagogue in Bahrain, has been renovated and reopened and offers guided tours on the history of Jews in Bahrain, and the Khamis Mosque, with its twin minarets, is regarded as the oldest mosque in the region.

On the water, boat trips from the Bahrain Yacht Club and Al Bandar resort offer dolphin watching, with dolphins and manatees in the Gulf and traditional wooden dhows heading out for hammour, a type of grouper. You can try scuba diving from the same bases, or pearl diving, a trade Bahrain is known for. Horse riding lessons and hacks are available in Saar through the Twin Palms Riding School and the Dilmun Club, and the national racecourse at Al Sakhir hosts races every Friday from October to March, with a grandstand and no betting. Birdwatchers can take the boat trip from Ad Dur Jetty to the Hawar Islands, a haven for flamingos, bulbuls, ospreys and sooty falcons. The Fun-land centre along the Marina corniche has the only ice rink in town, and Adhari Park is a small amusement park with rides built around the Ain Adhari spring.

When to go

Manama has an arid climate with little rain, most of it falling in winter, and high temperatures for much of the year. Winter is the coolest stretch, with temperatures generally approaching the low twenties, and it is also when the year's sparse rain arrives, so you may meet occasional showers. Conditions then are comparatively comfortable for being outdoors, making it the easier season for walking and sightseeing.

Summer brings daytime highs around the forties, a punishing time to be outside during the day. If you visit then, confine sightseeing to early morning or evening, and expect rain to be very unlikely.

Three days in Manama

Day one: Start in Manama itself, the capital of Bahrain on the Persian Gulf, and get your bearings in the older heart of the city before heading out to Muharraq, the historic island connected to Manama and home to Bahrain International Airport (BAH). Use the Bahrain Public Transport Company network to move between the two: buy a Go Card at Manama Terminal, and if you plan to travel a lot, a weekly or personalised Go Card makes sense. Because summers are hot and humid, plan your walking for the cooler parts of the day.

Day two: Give the day to Muharraq, where traces of the island's pearling past and its Portuguese, Persian and British influences sit alongside everyday life. Renting a car is an option, but taxis are straightforward and the bus routes cover the main connections. Keep in mind that alcohol is restricted, and that Islamic customs shape the rhythm of the city, so dress and behave accordingly.

Day three: Head to the modern districts of Juffair and Seef, near the waterfront, for a change of pace from the old city. From Manama Terminal you can reach the airport and the rest of the island, and the University of Isa is among the landmarks you may pass. If you have time before your flight, the terminal area is easy to navigate, and the Go Card system keeps your onward travel simple.