Cox's Bazar
Introduction
Cox's Bazar is a city, fishing port and tourism centre in south-eastern Bangladesh, and the headquarters of both Cox's Bazar District and Cox's Bazar Sadar Upazila. Its beach is the main draw for visitors.
Before you go
Before you go, set your expectations: Cox's Bazar is the country's most popular beach resort, built largely for Bangladeshi holidaymakers rather than foreign visitors. Think of it as a Cancun of the east — dense with massive cement hotels and gaudy overdevelopment aimed mostly at the country's elite. If you have taken beach vacations elsewhere, this one likely won't compare, but it is a revealing way to see how Bangladeshis live it up.
- The main beach is crowded, especially around the Hotel Motel Zone, a large cluster of more upmarket hotels.
- Expect a lot of attention, and plan to stay fully clothed on the sand and in the water.
- Inani Beach, 30 km south, should be quieter, though you should still expect to draw some attention.
Getting there
Cox's Bazar sits about 150 km south of Chittagong and is reachable by air, road and rail. Non-stop flights run from both Chittagong and Dhaka on Biman Bangladesh Airlines and US-Bangla Airlines; services are generally daily during the high season from October to April, dropping to three or four flights a week through the summer and monsoon months from May to September.
By road, the main bus terminal lies a few kilometres east of the central town area, roughly a 15-minute rickshaw ride away. Local buses run to Chittagong and to Teknaf. Private bus companies keep offices near Hotel Sea Queen on the main road and also down in the Hotel Motel Zone. Direct trains also link Dhaka and Cox's Bazar, with two services on the route, the Parjotok Express and the Coxs Bazar Express, both offering a comfortable journey with scenic views.
Getting around
Cox's Bazar is compact, and the places you're most likely to want — the beach, the Hotel Motel Zone, the main road and the Laldighi Lake area — sit close enough together that getting around stays simple. Cycle-rickshaws are plentiful and are the default way to cover short hops, so you rarely need to plan ahead; you can flag one down on the street. Drivers routinely quote higher prices to foreigners than to locals, so agree the fare before you set off. A ride between the Hotel Motel Zone and the Laldighi Lake area on the main road is short and inexpensive, and a modest middle ground between the opening ask and what you'd prefer is usually acceptable to both sides.
Walking works well for nearby hotels, eateries and the beach, particularly in the cooler parts of the day, but bear the tropical monsoon climate in mind: high temperatures, heavy rainfall and excessive humidity make long walks uncomfortable, the southwest monsoon season is even wetter here than elsewhere in Bangladesh, and the city is susceptible to flooding from cyclones and storm surges. For anything beyond a short stroll, take a rickshaw. Buses are the main way in from elsewhere in the region and also serve some local routes; the main bus terminal sits a few kilometres east of the centre, a quick rickshaw ride away, with local services to Chittagong and Teknaf. Private bus company offices near Hotel Sea Queen on the main road and in the Hotel Motel Zone let you book onward or return journeys without going out to the terminal. There is no taxi fleet or ride-hailing scene to rely on, so if you want a car with a driver, arrange it through your hotel or a local travel operator. Cox's Bazar has no metro or tram system — the named trains, the Parjotok Express and the Coxs Bazar Express, are intercity services to and from Dhaka only. The city is also connected by air with Dhaka and Chittagong, and on arrival the practical way into town is the same as anywhere else here: a cycle-rickshaw or a car arranged through your hotel.
Where to stay
Where you sleep in Cox's Bazar depends largely on how close you want to be to the sand. Budget hotels cluster around Laldighi Lake in the main town area, while the large concrete properties sit nearer the beach, growing bigger and grander as you head south towards the Hotel Motel Zone. In the centre of town, Hotel Sea Gull and Sayeman Beach Resort are decent choices, and the government tourism organisation Parjatan Corporation also runs a few hotels and motels, among them Hotel Probal and Sikat.
- Seagull Hotel, in the Hotel Motel Zone, is modern and safe, with its own landscaped walkway down to the beach and a pleasant outdoor swimming pool. It also has a bar tucked away behind the reception area.
- Hotel Sea Crown sits on the beach along Marine Drive at Kola Toil New Beach, while Mermaid Beach Resort at Pechar Dwip offers air-conditioned rooms on a secluded stretch of sand with good views, a restaurant serving fresh seafood and reliable Wi-Fi.
- Royal Tulip Sea Pearl Beach Resort & Spa, at Jaliapalong in Inani, Ukhia, has luxurious rooms and suites, two swimming pools (one exclusively for ladies) and a long list of indoor and outdoor activities for adults and children, including a water park, tennis and badminton courts, a 3D movie hall, billiards, an amphitheater, a spa and a gym.
- Long Beach Hotel Cox's Bazar is in the Hotel-Motel Zone at Kalatoli, and Sayeman Beach Resort on Marine Drive Road at Kolatali offers surfing and water sports, a Thai spa, a swimming pool, a restaurant and an event venue.
- Best Western Heritage, near Kolatoli Circle on Bypass Road, has rooms with balconies, LED televisions, tea and coffee makers, safety lockers, parking and free Wi-Fi.
- Ocean Paradise, on Kolatoli Road in the Hotel Motel Zone, is one of the larger and better hotels; it is not on the beach itself but is a short walk from it.
Food & drink
Bangladeshi cooking is the main event in Cox's Bazar, and fried fish is the local speciality. Two neighbouring restaurants on Hotel Sayeman Rd, just south of Sea Beach Rd, are the reliable standouts: Jhawban Restaurant and Poushee Restaurant. Both draw a crowd, particularly at lunch, and Poushee is known for its seafood in particular. Expect a filling meal without spending much.
- Jhawban Restaurant and Poushee Restaurant — Hotel Sayeman Rd, south of Sea Beach Rd; Bangladeshi food, fried fish, busy at lunch.
- Mermaid Café — Sea In Point Sughandha Beach, in the Hotel Motel Zone; laidback beachside café with hammocks and several sitting areas, a creative menu of crepes and savoury pancakes, and seafood-heavy mains such as shrimp salad, pastas and fish pizza. Fresh juices, filter coffee and espresso are available, and they take music requests.
- Sea Stone Café — Sea In Point Sughandha Beach, part of Divine Eco Resort; the only two-storey building on the beachfront, with sweeping views of Cox's Bazar beach and a top deck that is the best spot in town to watch the sun set over the Bay of Bengal. Western and Asian dishes, fresh juices, coffee and tea, with entrées including grilled prawns, calamari and niçoise salad, plus home-made pasta, pizza, chicken, beef, prawns, calamari, crab, lobster and fish. Service can be slow.
- Rannaghar Restaurant — opposite the land Survey Office, Old Hotel Sayeman Rd; a home-cooked style meal in plain surroundings, with good bhortas, curries and fish. Ask the waiter for recommendations based on your taste.
Alcohol is available at a handful of places, mostly hotel bars such as those at Seagull Hotel, Hotel Sayeman, Hotel Shaibal and Renaissance Hotel. Don't expect much: the ambience leaves a lot to be desired, the beer isn't guaranteed to be cold, and prices run higher than you might expect.
What to see and do
Cox's Bazar is known for its long stretch of golden sand, and the beach is the centre of most visits here. You can walk the shoreline, watch the surf, and take in the cliffs that rise near the sand. The area also has colourful pagodas, Buddhist temples and tribal communities to explore, and the seafood is a highlight of any stay. If you want to get on the water, the Cox's Bazar Surf Club Resort, Surf & Cafe at Sugandha Beach Point offers surf lessons and surf boats, and also has lodging. Fun Fest at Himchori Beach is another option for organised activities along the coast.When to go
Cox's Bazar has a tropical monsoon climate, so the timing of your trip matters a great deal. The southwest monsoon brings the wettest stretch of the year, and because the town sits right on the coast, the rain here is heavier than elsewhere in Bangladesh. Expect hot conditions, heavy downpours and excessive humidity, and be aware that the floodplain parts of the city are prone to flooding from cyclones and storm surges during this period. Once the monsoon rains ease off, you get the most comfortable stretch for visiting the beach and dunes. Days stay warm, but the humidity is less oppressive than in the wet season, and this is when most travellers come. If you want the beach at its most manageable, plan around these cooler, drier months.Three days in Cox's Bazar
Day one: Arrive in Cox's Bazar and settle into the Hotel Motel Zone, where most of the town's accommodation sits. Get your bearings on foot along the beach, then wind down by Laldighi Lake. If you have energy left, a cycle rickshaw ride through town is an easy way to see how the place fits together.
Day two: Give the day to Inani Beach, south of town along the Chittagong road. Local buses and private vehicles make the run, and drivers will stop where you ask. Come back for a seafood dinner in the Hotel Motel Zone.
Day three: Head north to Teknaf for the day, or stay in Cox's Bazar and take it slowly. Buses such as the Parjotok Express and Coxs Bazar Express connect the town with Dhaka, and Biman Bangladesh Airlines and US-Bangla Airlines fly the route, so plan your onward travel around whichever suits you.