Bandarban

Introduction

Bandarban is a small town in Chittagong Division, Bangladesh, and serves as the headquarters of Bandarban District. It sits on the Sangu River, which shapes the town's setting and its role as a base for the surrounding district.

Before you go

Bandarban is a hill district in Bangladesh governed by a Hill Council under the Bangladesh government and headed by the King of Mong Circle. The area is home to more than fifteen ethnic minorities, including the Marma, Mru, Bawm, Khyang, Tripuri, Mizo, Khumi, Chak, Kuki, Chakma, and others, alongside Bengali settlers and Rohingya refugees. The main religions practised are Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, and Chramma, along with various pagan faiths. Bangla is the official language, while Marma, Bawm, and Mru are spoken locally.

Malaria is a major health threat in the region, so malaria prophylaxis is highly advisable. Before travelling, you can gather information from the Press Club, the Tribal Cultural Institute, the office of Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation, or the office of Guide Tours at Hill Side Resort.

Getting there

The easiest way to reach Bandarban is a direct bus from Dhaka, a journey of about six hours. Services include Dolphin at Kalabagan, Unique, Shyamoli Paribahan (with counters at Gabtali, Asad Gate, Fakirerpul, Kamlapur and Saydabad) and S Alam at Kamalapur. In high tourist season, buy your ticket in advance. You can also arrive from Chittagong by bus in roughly two hours, most readily with Purbani at Bahaddarhaat; from Cox's Bazar the bus takes about three hours, again most readily with Purbani, this time at Laaldighi. Purbani Bus Service can be reached on 01820412800 in Chittagong or 0361-62508 in Bandarban. A direct route from Rangamati via Chandraghona exists, but it is perilous and not advisable at all.

To connect through Chittagong from Dhaka, choose between a flight, a bus (Sohag is the best service, available at Kalabagan and Mahakhali) or a train from Kamalapur (Turna Nishitha, Mahanagar Godhuli and Subarna). From Chittagong to Bandarban by bus takes about four hours, with Purbani the most available apart from Dolphin. Renting a car in Chittagong is straightforward through Bangladesh Enterprise at Chandgao, Al-Amin Enterprise or Alam Enterprise at Hazi Para in Agrabad, Bismilla Fashion at Reazuddin Bazar, or Samara Fashions at Azimir Super Market on Monim Road. Renting a car in Dhaka for the whole way is not advisable: plainland drivers are generally poor in the hills and unfamiliar with the locality, so it is prudent to hire a driver from Bandarban. Within Bandarban, jeeps, Land Rovers and Land Cruisers operate from the Bandarban Jeep station under the Bandarban Jeep-Microbus Owners Association, in small (five-seat) and large (eight-seat) sizes; fares are described as fixed but there is plenty of room to bargain. Locally called CNG autos are also available but are not that safe. Before renting any jeep, check that it carries a spare wheel, since punctures are common on hot roads.

Getting around

Bandarban is a compact hill town on the Sangu River, and the centre is easy to cover on foot, so if you stay near the main bazaar or the river you can walk to most places you need. For anything beyond a short stroll, the rickshaw is the most readily available transport in town and the default choice for short local trips. There is no rail, metro or tram network serving the town, and no ride-hailing apps to rely on, so you arrange transport directly with drivers and owners.

For places out of town, three-wheeler taxis wait near the Traffic Mor, four-wheel-drive vehicles for hire are available near Hotel Green Hill, and a rent-a-car station operates near Hotel Hill Bird. The regular public transit system consists of ancient four-wheel-drive vehicles known locally as Chander Gari, or "Moon Car", found at the Ruma and Rowangchhari bus stations and near the Sonali Bank. Jeeps, Land Rovers and Land Cruisers are available at the Bandarban Jeep station under the Bandarban Jeep-Microbus Owners Association, with both small and large jeeps offered; fares are presented as fixed but there is room to bargain. Autos, locally called CNG, also run but are not considered particularly safe. Before renting a jeep, check that it carries a spare wheel, since punctures are common on hot days because of high road temperatures, and hiring a driver from Bandarban is prudent, as plainland drivers are generally poor in the hills and do not know the locality. You can also travel by native boat along the Sangu River, boarding at either the Bazaar Ghat or the Kyaw Ching Ghat. Major road routes out of town include Chimbuk–Ruma, Bandarban–Rowangchhari–Ruma, Aziznagar–Gojalia–Lama, Khanhat–Dhopachhari–Bandarban, Bandarban–Chimbuk–Thanchi–Alikadam–Baishari–Dhundhum, and Chimbuk–Tangkabati–Baro Aoulia.

Food & drink

In Bandarban Bazaar you'll find good restaurants serving local cuisine, though it is mostly too hot for unaccustomed palates. Among the best places to eat are Khaoa Daoa, a Muslim restaurant meaning they serve beef, and Adarsha Bhaatghar, a Hindu restaurant meaning they don't serve beef. Chinese or Continental food is available but expensive by local standards and of poor quality; you can check with Ree Song Song in the town or Kyank Ching at Parzatan Motel Megla. Note that most hotels in Bandarban do not have any restaurant attached.

The local tribespeople consider almost everything that walks, flies or swims as food, so with a little luck you may sample dog meat, and even dried snakes or deer meat (both protected species in Bangladesh). Nappi, a semi-dried fish-paste with powerful flavor, is one of the top delicacies. Though there are no designated bars or pubs, alcoholic drinks are widely available due to the culture of the tribes-people. A local rice wine called Arraa is potent, often flavored with stone-apples, pineapples and elachi, and best drunk with coconut juice; Ching Rey is a beer made from the first brew of Arraa. Tea is common in the daytime at plentiful hot tea shops, served with thin milk and salt instead of sugar. There is no formal nightlife, but if you stay outside the town it may be possible to sit at a gathering of tribal village folk for a little music and a lot of drinking.

What to see and do

Bandarban's sights cluster around Buddhist temples, hilltop viewpoints and the surrounding hill country. In Balaghata, about 4 km from town, the Buddha Dhatu Jadi — locally called the Swarna Mandir — is a Theravada temple built in South-East Asian style atop a 60-metre hill, housing a sacred relic and a large statue of Buddha. In town itself, the monasteries at Jadipara and Ujanipara, known as Raj Vihar and Ujanipara Vihar, are the notable places of interest; these temples are called kyang locally. Further out, Shoilo Propat waterfall at Milanchari sits on the road to Thanchi, while Meghla, on the road to Keranihat, has a mini-safari-park, a zoo and a hanging bridge, and the nearby Nilachal site at Tigerpara was developed by the District Administration.

For wider views, Chimbuk is one of the country's tallest peaks, roughly 14 km from town, with Bawm villages around it and Mru villages a little further off, all within a day's journey. Nilgiri, some 46 km away, is another tall peak with a resort on top run by the Bangladesh Army, reached by booking through an army officer; foreign tourists are restricted there. Prantik Lake, Jibannagar and Kyachlong Lake are among the other places of interest. Boga Lake, about 18 km from Ruma Sadar, is a blue lake ringed by high hills with a small village beside it, home to Bawm and Khumi communities; the walk beside it is difficult in the rainy season and the road from Ruma is still under construction. A boat trip down the River Sangu is a much-admired activity, whether a short sampan ride with a tea stop or a full-day cruise with meal stops, passing people working the river with bamboos — though in the dry season the water runs shallow and your boat may scrape the riverbed. Guided tour packages run through Buddha Dhatu Jadi, Meghla, Shoilo Propat, Raj Vihar, Ujanipara Vihar, tribal villages and Chimbuk Hill. Serious hikers can trek to Keokaradong or Tahjindong, the two tallest peaks, where the Khumi and Kuki live; Boga Lake lies directly on the route and Raikhiang Lake just off it.

Three days in Bandarban

Day one: Arrive in Bandarban, the district town of Bandarban District in the Chittagong Division of Bangladesh, and take your bearings in the town itself. The town sits on the Sangu River, and the surrounding hills are home to communities including the Marma, Mru, Bawm, Khyang, Tripuri, Mizo, Khumi, Chak, Kuki and Chakma, alongside Bengali residents. Start with the Tribal Cultural Institute to get an overview of the region's peoples and their traditions, then visit the Press Club area. Buddhism, Islam, Christianity and Hinduism are all practised here, and you will hear Chramma and Bangla spoken. If you want an organised introduction, the Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation and Guide Tours both run services in the region, and Hill Side Resort is one option for a base. Dhaka is the usual starting point for the journey.

Day two: Head out along the Sangu River, the waterway that gives the area much of its character. The hills and riverbanks are the heart of Bandarban District, and a boat trip is the classic way to see them. The town is administered within the framework of the Hill Council and the Mong Circle, with a King as the traditional authority of the Mong Circle. Malaria is a concern in the region, so take sensible precautions before you travel. The climate is warm and humid for much of the year, with a cooler season in the hills.

Day three: Use your last day to slow down and fill any gaps. Return to the Tribal Cultural Institute if you want a second, closer look, or spend time in the town's markets and riverside. The Rohingya presence and the mix of communities give Bandarban a distinct character within Bangladesh. Before you leave, confirm your onward transport, whether you are returning to Dhaka or continuing elsewhere in the Chittagong Division.