Puthia
Introduction
Puthia is home to a temple complex that holds the largest number of historic temples in Bangladesh, set in Rajshahi District about 23 km east of Rajshahi city. The temples were built by the Hindu Zamindars of the Puthia Raj family, remembered as philanthropists of Rajshahi, and they display terracotta work in a range of styles that blend the typical Jor-bangla architecture with other influences.
- The Rajbari, or Palace of the Raja of Puthia, and the Dol Mancha both form part of the complex.
- The temples are laid out around a lake called Shyam Sagar.
- The whole complex is ringed by a moat known as Shiv Sagar.
Before you go
Puthia takes its name from the Raj family who came to own the area in the 16th century, when its head was granted the title of zamindar by the Mughal Emperor Jahangir. The family built temples and palaces around the lake, and the estate grew into one of the wealthiest zamindaries in the subcontinent. After the partition of India, the new Pakistan government revoked the zamindars' titles and land, and the family left for India. Today the site is fairly well-preserved, with a number of Hindu temples and the imposing Puthia Palace, which also houses a museum. You are unlikely to run into other Western tourists here, so expect a quiet visit rather than a busy one. Puthia sits close to the district headquarters of Rajshahi, which makes it easy to explore on a day trip.Getting there
Puthia sits about 23km east of Rajshahi and 16km west of Natore, with the village itself roughly 1km south of the Rajshahi–Natore highway. Buses run frequently between the two towns, covering the route in about 30 minutes; you can simply ask to be let off at Puthia and walk the short distance into the village.
Alternatively, you can take a CNG auto-rickshaw to Puthia from one of the major towns. The village works well as a day trip from Rajshahi, and hotels there can arrange a car for you.
Getting around
Puthia is a small place, so walking is a simple and enjoyable way to get around. The temples and mansions are all grouped around the Shyam Sagar lake at the centre of the complex, which sits on a man-made island ringed by the Shiv Sagar moat, so you can comfortably cover the main sights on foot.
- If you would rather ride, hail a passing rickshaw and the driver will happily take you to the sites. You can also hire a driver for a number of hours or even the entire day; if you are lucky, he may speak English and give you a tour of the area, historical information included.
- There is no rail, metro or tram network serving Puthia itself. Visitors reach the area by road from Rajshahi or Natore and then move around the village on foot or by rickshaw.
- Buses are the main form of public transport for reaching Puthia, running the route between Rajshahi and Natore. You do not need a formal stop: ask the conductor or driver to let you off at the village, then walk the short distance in.
- CNG auto-rickshaws are another option for reaching Puthia from the nearby towns. For a car, hotels in Rajshahi can arrange one, and because the village is close to Rajshahi it also works well as a day trip from the city.
Where to stay
There is no accommodation in Puthia itself, so you will need to base yourself elsewhere and visit as a day trip. Dhaka is within reach, but the journey makes for a long and hectic day, so staying closer is the easier option.
The nearby cities of Rajshahi and Natore both offer a variety of places to stay, making either a practical base for exploring Puthia.
Food & drink
In the centre of the village you will find a number of small establishments and street-food sellers, so eating here is a casual, on-the-street affair rather than a sit-down restaurant experience. Vendors set up around the middle of the village, making it easy to grab something as you wander. The dish to seek out is jhal muri, a popular spicy puffed rice. It is served with crumbled vegetable fitters and finished with a dash of mustard oil and chili, which makes it extremely spicy — so ask for it mild if you prefer to take it easy.What to see and do
Puthia is a temple town, and its sights cluster around the Rajbari complex and the tanks beside it. Start with the Pancha Ratna Shiv Temple, the largest Shiv temple in Bangladesh, its five spires built from many smaller sub-spires and reached by a long flight of stairs from the south, with a pair of curved staircases on the north leading down to the ghat of Shiv Sagar. Next to it stands the Rath Mandir, dedicated to Lord Jagannath, an octagonal two-storey white temple with stucco work and a dome-like finial. Within the Rajbari complex, the Pancharatna Gobinda Mandir is among the most spectacular terracotta temples in the country, its triple-arched entrance covered in intricate ornamentation. The Puthia Rajbari itself is a two-storey Indo-Saracenic mansion facing north across a large open ground, with fluted Corinthian columns, a central ornamental pediment and a museum on the history of Puthia. Behind it are Rani Hemanta Kumari's private residence and Rani Ghat, an enclosed bathing space on Shiv Sagar used by women. Also behind the Rajbari are the small Choto Annik Mandir and, at the south-east corner of Shiv Sagar, the tiny Choto Shiv Mandir, both with elaborate terracotta facades. The Dol Mandir stands near the market area, a four-storey structure on a square base whose stages step inward, each with fewer arches, topped by a dome. At the south-west corner of Shiv Sagar, the ruined Char Ani Palace is approached through a gate, its roof long collapsed and only pillars and arches remaining. North of it, on the west bank of Shyam Sagar, a small complex holds the Gopal Temple, the Choto Gobindo Mandir and the east-facing Boro Annik Mandir, which mixes do chala and char chala forms. Beyond exploring these temples and mansions, there is not much else to do.Three days in Puthia
Day one: Start in Puthia, in Rajshahi District, and get your bearings around the Rajbari complex. The Rajbari, or Puthia Palace, was the seat of the Puthia Raj, the Hindu Zamindars who shaped the town's architecture. Begin with the Pancha Ratna Shiv Temple, then move on to the Dol Mancha and the temples around Shiv Sagar and Shyam Sagar. Vendors cluster near the main monuments, so you can pause between sites without leaving the grounds.
- Puthia Palace and the Rajbari grounds
- Pancha Ratna Shiv Temple
- Dol Mancha
- Shiv Sagar and Shyam Sagar
Day two: Give the temples and tanks a slower pass. The Puthia Raj built across generations, and the details reward a second look. The town's history runs from the Mughal Emperor Jahangir through the British period, the partition of India and Pakistan, and into Bangladesh today. Hindu worship continues at several of the temples, so expect the site to be both a monument and a living place of devotion.
Day three: Use Puthia as a base for Rajshahi, the nearest city, or for Natore. Buses run from Dhaka, and you can also reach the town by CNG. If you have time before leaving, walk the Western edge of the tank and the remaining temple fronts. English signage is limited, so carry your own notes. Visitors often combine Puthia with Rajshahi's other sights, but the Rajbari alone can fill a morning.