Sarajevo
Introduction
Nestled in the heart of the Balkans in Southeastern Europe, you will find Sarajevo situated within the greater Sarajevo valley. The city sits along the Miljacka River and is surrounded by the majestic Dinaric Alps.
Before you go
Prepare for a journey through a city defined by its profound cultural diversity and complex history as a meeting point between East and West. You will experience a landscape where Ottoman, Central-European, and Socialist modern architectures sit in close proximity, reflecting centuries of coexistence among different faiths. While the city has recovered from past conflicts, you may still see bullet holes on some buildings. Be mindful of the local environment; while most areas are safe, you should stick to paved surfaces and avoid grassy hills where unexploded ordnances may remain. Additionally, be cautious when crossing streets due to high traffic fatality rates, and stay alert for pickpockets, particularly while using public transportation.
The climate is characterized by hot summers and snowy, cold winters, with the surrounding mountains creating a humid continental atmosphere. If you have respiratory issues, be aware that the air can become thick with pollution during the winter months. When exploring, focus on the distinct character of the neighborhoods:
- Old Town (Stari Grad): Explore the eastern half for Ottoman-influenced architecture and the western half to see the influence of Austria-Hungary.
- Bascarsija: Experience the traditional bazaar atmosphere in the heart of the city's historic center.
Getting there
You can arrive in the city by plane at Sarajevo Airport, which is situated in a mountainous area where fog-prone conditions can cause delays during the winter months. The airport features a main hall with currency exchange, a bookshop for local SIM cards, and a food area, while the airside offers a cafe and duty-free shops. If you prefer to fly into Tuzla Airport, you can take a direct bus to Sarajevo or travel via standard regional buses.
To reach the city center from the airport, you can take a shuttle bus that runs frequently during the day or choose a trolleybus route through the Dobrinja neighborhood. While taxis are available, be cautious of drivers who may attempt to use fixed prices rather than meters. For those arriving by train, the local station is centrally located but offers limited services; international trains from Croatia pass through on specific days during the summer months. The city also features two bus stations: the Main Station for most long-distance international routes and the East Station for destinations in Republika Srpska.
Getting around
Navigating Sarajevo involves a mix of walking and public transport across its hilly terrain. The city center and the area near Baščaršija are largely walkable, though you should be prepared for winding streets in the Old Town where getting lost can be part of the experience. Because street signs are sparse and often placed on sides of buildings, using a map—whether physical copies from local information offices or digital apps—is highly recommended. While some locals may not know specific street names, they can provide general directions.
For longer journeys, the tram network serves as the backbone of the city's transport, with several lines connecting the center to areas like Ilidža and Marijin Dvor. Trolleybuses also offer frequent connections, including a route from Dobrinja to the city center. If you prefer cycling, there are dedicated lanes along the river and main boulevard, though traffic can be challenging. Taxis are available but require caution; ensure your driver uses a meter and avoid "fixed price" offers. To reach outlying areas like Vratnik or the airport, buses provide necessary links beyond the tram lines.
Where to stay
When choosing where to stay in Sarajevo, you can select from various accommodations ranging from budget-friendly hostels and guesthouses to upscale boutique hotels. In the Old Town area, you can find cozy guesthouses with private rooms or larger establishments that offer a more modern experience near the city center. For those seeking convenience, some options are located within walking distance of local landmarks like the Latin Bridge or the bustling markets of Bascarsija. If you prefer to stay on the outskirts, several hotels provide easy access to the airport or sit in quieter residential neighborhoods.
Depending on your preferences for atmosphere and amenities, you might choose a centrally located hotel with spa facilities, a boutique property overlooking archaeological sites, or a simple lodge near the river. If you are traveling on a budget, hostels offer shared dorms or private rooms, often featuring communal kitchens and common areas. Regardless of your choice, ensure your accommodation handles your mandatory registration with local police within 24 hours of your arrival.
Food & drink
Bosnian cuisine is shaped by both Eastern and Western influences, focusing on local produce such as meat, vegetables, fruits, and dairy products. You can find quick meals in various small shops and cafés, where you can choose from burek (a meat pie), pita (available as meat, cheese, or spinach varieties), or ćevapi—minced beef and mutton served in somun flatbread.
The city offers a diverse culinary landscape ranging from traditional staples to modern offerings:
- Experience local flavors in the city center near the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, where you can find authentic Bosnian cuisine, hearty pies, or savory meat dishes.
- Explore the area around the Vječna vatra memorial for traditional dishes served in historic atmospheres, as well as specialized spots for crepes and various types of pizza.
- Choose from a variety of dining styles, including "home-cooking" vegetable-based dishes, open kitchens with diverse daily menus, or upscale selections of national dishes like spit-roasted lamb.
- Savor the local culture in numerous cafés throughout the city, particularly in the old town, where you can enjoy traditional Bosnian-style coffee and various cakes.
What to see and do
Explore the historic district of Baščaršija, where cobbled streets and oriental-style shops create an atmosphere that feels worlds away from the rest of Europe. In this old bazaar, you can wander past mosques, a Catholic church, an Orthodox church, and a synagogue while hearing the call to prayer. The area is filled with shops selling copperware, woodwork, and sweets. Within this district, you can visit the Sebilj, a pseudo-Ottoman wooden fountain in Pigeon Square where you can find drinkable water and watch crowds of pigeons. Nearby, the Morića Inn stands as the only preserved Ottoman caravanserai in the city, featuring Persian calligraphic inscriptions and a traditional restaurant. You can also view the Clock Tower, which remains unique for its lunar clock mechanism that resets at every sunset.
To navigate the city's sights, you can use a dedicated mobile app that provides maps and themed audio routes of varying lengths. For those preferring guided exploration, walking tours are available in Baščaršija to cover the area's many historic monuments. If you need an orientation point, look for the distinctive twisted tower; its height makes it easy to spot from afar, and it features a café-bar and restaurant on a high level with an observation deck. Other notable landmarks include the Sacred Heart Cathedral, a Neo-Gothic structure that serves as a prominent symbol of the city.
When to go
You can experience a wide range of conditions in Sarajevo depending on your choice of season. During the summer, you will encounter hot, dry weather where temperatures frequently rise high above the average. While rain occurs during these months, it is less predictable than in other parts of the year.
If you visit during the winter, prepare for cold and snowy conditions where precipitation often falls as snow. During the transition periods of spring, autumn, and early winter, you can expect regular rainfall throughout the season.
Three days in Sarajevo
Day one, you can begin your journey by exploring the Old Town, also known as Stari Grad. Wander through the historic streets of Baščaršija to experience the Ottoman influence that defines this part of the city.
Day two, navigate Sarajevo and discover the blend of East and West. You can walk along the Miljacka River or take in the surroundings influenced by both Central European and Ottoman traditions.
Day three, you can explore more of the local area beyond the center. Whether you are looking toward the Dinaric Alps or exploring the outskirts, you can experience the unique character of this region in Southeastern Europe.