Mendoza travel guide

Mendoza, Argentina

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Mendoza

Introduction

Mendoza is the capital of the province of the same name in Argentina, set in the northern-central part of the province on the eastern side of the Andes. The city occupies a landscape of foothills and high plains, with the mountain range rising to the west.

Greater Mendoza is one of the country's larger metropolitan areas, and the city serves as the urban base for exploring the surrounding Andean terrain.

Before you go

Mendoza sits in an extremely dry desert region, but an extensive artificial irrigation system keeps the city green: most streets have channels on either side, crossed by bridges, and these are periodically flooded with water diverted from the river. The trees and wide avenues give the city a leafy ambience that sets it apart from much of bare-feeling Argentina, and the same irrigation supports the grapes behind its wines. To the immediate west, the Pre-Cordillera of the Andes towers over the city, with glimpses of snow-covered Andean peaks beyond. Plan around local rhythms: a siesta is still taken here, with most businesses closing in the afternoon and reopening later, and banks open only in the mornings on weekdays. The tourist information office on the western side of the Plaza Independencia is a good place to pick up information and maps.

Getting there

Mendoza is well connected by long-distance bus, and the main terminal sits about 2 km east of the centre. Taxis and remis (private taxis) are readily available for the short hop into town, or you can walk it in around 15 minutes — though the walk is not recommended at night, as the area between the terminal and the centre borders on the red light district. The station itself is large and modern, with several companies running routes to all major destinations in Argentina and some international services to Chile; you'll find places to buy food and drinks inside.

Daily buses reach destinations across the country and beyond, including a scenic 7-hour ride over the Andes to Santiago (allow 8–9 hours with the border crossing). Note that the Andean pass can close after the first heavy snowfall, normally around late May, though closures usually last only a few days; border waiting times can be very long in high season. Other connections include San Juan (2 hours), Córdoba (10 hours), Buenos Aires (13–17 hours), Bariloche (18 hours), Salta (18 hours), Puerto Iguazú (36 hours) and Montevideo (26 hours). By air, El Plumerillo airport is small, with flights to Buenos Aires and Santiago plus services to Salta, Iguazú and Bariloche on certain days; domestic fares are steep compared with bus tickets, while some international routes are more reasonably priced. From the airport you can take a remis at fixed posted prices, or a city bus that runs infrequently and takes about an hour downtown — you'll need a bus card, which isn't sold at the airport.

Getting around

Central Mendoza is compact enough to explore on foot: as a rough guide, it's a 20- to 30-minute walk from Plaza Independencia to Parque San Martin. Walking is not recommended, however, for reaching the bodegas (vineyards) to the south, which are at least 10 km away. If you arrive at the bus terminal, the centre is about a 15-minute walk, but this route is not recommended at night, as the area between the terminal and the centre borders on the red light district.

Buses are plentiful but a little confusing at first. The Mendotran system organises services into two "webs": one that takes you into and out of the city proper, and one that connects the different areas of the periphery. The network relies heavily on changing buses, so it's common for map apps to suggest a transfer; after touching in, there is a 90-minute period during which it is free to board another bus. You cannot pay cash for your fare — pay with a SUBE card (the same card used in Buenos Aires and some other cities) or with your international contactless debit or credit card when boarding, and NFC payments are also accepted. SUBE cards can be bought from some kioskos near a bus stop and charged up at the same place. Bus stop signs may still be missing, so you may need to rely on the Mendotran website, Google Maps, or the knowledge of local people — particularly store-keepers — to find your stop. The system is being expanded to travel north, up to the airport, and south, to Luján de Cuyo.

Where to stay

Mendoza is a liveable city where many visitors settle in for a few weeks, but short-term apartment rentals are less established here than in Buenos Aires. You can find a few options online, though be wary of paying a deposit before you arrive, as the apartment may not meet your expectations. Traffic noise can also be a particular problem.

For the most pleasant base, look between Plaza Independencia and Park San Martin, where the streets are quiet and the neighbourhoods well kept, and the bars and restaurants of Arístides Villanueva are within walking distance. East of the centre is a cheaper area with the budget hostels. Among the budget options, Casa Pueblo Hostel sits a short walk from the centre with a large, well-equipped kitchen, while Hostel Lagares and Hotel Mayo are handy for downtown. Mid-range choices include Alamo Hostel near Plaza Chile, the party-friendly Campo Base near Plaza Independencia, Hostel Lao with its garden, pool and weekly wine tastings, and Hostel Mendoza Inn on the bars street. Bohemia Hotel Boutique is in the elegant fifth section, and NH Cordillera is close to the main square. For a splurge, the Park Hyatt Mendoza faces Plaza Independencia, while Cavas Wine Lodge, Club Tapiz, Posada Borravino and Tupungato Divino put you out among the vineyards.

Food & drink

Mendoza is beef country, and the classic order is asado from a parrilla, taken with a bottle of local wine. The region's best-known varieties are the Malbecs of Maipú and Luján de Cuyo, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot also worth seeking out. If a whole bottle is too much, ask for a 375ml bottle — often called three-eighths of a litre — rather than falling back on the house wine, which is as variable here as anywhere. For a broad, affordable introduction to Argentine cooking, try one of the city's many tenedor libres (free fork) buffets, where a giant grill turns out several meat dishes alongside sides and desserts.

The main restaurant strip runs along Aristides Villanueva, from Ave Belgrano to Parque San Martin, and it's hard to eat badly there — though be wary of special offers from places near the hostels, where low prices show in the quality. Upmarket options cluster on Ave Sarmiento west of Plaza Independencia, while Ave Juan B Justo has a cluster of cheaper places. On Aristides you'll find stylish spots such as Sofia resto-bar, and at the strip's far end El Patio de Jesus Maria, a pleasant, pricier restaurant with a patio where you can dine while a football game is underway next door. In the city centre, La Barca is a dependable family-owned classic known for homemade pasta, and Barra & Brasas on Sarmiento is a parrilla that also does notable tapas. In Godoy Cruz, 1884 is one of Francis Mallman's restaurants, expensive but excellent and focused on local meat and produce. South of town near Chacras de Coria, Club Tapiz Restó sits among the vineyards of the Tapiz winery, serving regional dishes with a superb wine list. Note that Mendocinans eat late even by Argentine standards: on weekdays few diners arrive before around 9pm, and on Fridays and Saturdays things don't get going until later still.

What to see and do

Start downtown at Plaza Independencia, the central square and the natural jumping-off point for exploring the city; it has some fine buildings around it, restaurants, and occasional street shows, and the Mendoza Museum of Modern Art sits beneath it. Come back after dark to see the buildings lit up, the large coat of arms rendered in lights, and a dancing fountain with a light show set to pop music. From there, Plaza España is possibly the most beautiful square in the city, decorated throughout with Andalusian and Spanish motifs, its central wall depicting images and texts of the Spanish colonization and crowned by a statue. History-minded visitors can seek out the Casa de San Martin, where the general lived for two years as governor - the house is derelict and only fragments remain, so a visit is short - and the Ruins of San Francisco, the remnants of an 18th-century Jesuit church destroyed in the 1861 earthquake, with a small museum nearby.

Parque San Martín is the city's great green space, good for walking or biking, with the most manicured area near the lake. A well-maintained path runs from the junction of Avenida del Libertador and Subida al Cerro southward up to Cerro de la Gloria, which gives an excellent view over the city and mountains, a monument to San Martin's Ejército de los Andes, and a particularly pleasant outlook at sunset; allow the best part of half a day to look around properly. You can also rent a bicycle in the park. Beyond the city, many companies organize trekking, expeditions, horseback riding, and whitewater rafting in the desert and mountains, and Aconcagua offers trekking and climbing possibilities - agencies and hostels arrange trips, or you can take a bus to the park and walk the short interpretive trail and lookout. Paragliding tandem flights run off Cerro Arco year-round, winds permitting, and skiing is popular in winter, though the season is short, with Penitientes and Los Puquios the closest slopes. Festivals occur often and are usually free, each with its own theme, a stage for singing and dancing, and food booths around a plaza; the two-week harvest festival from late February into early March is a major event, featuring an evening promenade up and down Aristides street and a closing parade full of riders turned out as gauchos.

When to go

Mendoza's climate splits neatly into two seasons worth planning around. Summers in the city are hot and dry, with January the hottest month; the lack of humidity makes the heat more bearable than in humid Buenos Aires. If you head into the nearby mountains in summer, expect cool conditions even at the height of the season, so pack layers for the altitude.

Winter brings a quirk: the Zonda wind can arrive from the mountains, pushing warm, dry air down and raising temperatures sharply within a few hours, so even midwinter can turn warm to hot. Plan for the city and the mountains as two different climates, and keep a flexible wardrobe whichever season you choose.

Three days in Mendoza

Day one: Start in Mendoza itself, using the city as your base for the days ahead. Begin at Plaza Independencia, the central square from which the rest of the city is easy to reach on foot. Greater Mendoza spreads out around you, and the neighbourhoods of Maipu and Las Heras lie within reach if you want to see how the urban area extends beyond the centre. Note that traffic can be heavy and taxis are a straightforward way to get around. In the evening, settle into the pace of the city rather than planning anything ambitious.

Day two: Turn your attention to the Andes. The Andean Cordillera rises to the west, and the Pre-Cordillera forms the closer foothills. Plan your day around the mountains rather than the city, and be aware that The Zonda, a wind that sweeps down from the range, can change conditions quickly. Summers are warm and dry, while winters are cold; January is hot and June and August are chilly. If you are heading into the mountains, build in time for the drive and keep your plans flexible.

Day three: Use your last day to look beyond Mendoza. Chile lies across the Andes to the west, and Santiago is reachable overland, though the crossing takes time. Closer at hand, San Juan, Córdoba, Bariloche, Salta and Puerto Iguaz are all part of the wider Argentine picture, and Montevideo sits across the water. By air, El Plumerillo serves the city, with connections to Buenos Aires and beyond, including Iguaz. From the city you can also plan onward travel to these places, so leave room in your schedule for the next leg.

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