When the Christmas Lights Switch On Along the Graben
It is late afternoon on the first Sunday of Advent, and the pedestrian heart of Vienna has turned into a river of people. Above your head, chandeliers strung between the buildings of the Graben and Kohlmarkt glow against a darkening sky, and the façades of the inner city are washed in warm gold. Somewhere ahead, the smell of roasted chestnuts, mulled wine and hot punch drifts from the stalls of the Christmas markets. Church bells begin to ring from Stephansdom. This is the moment Vienna marks the start of Advent — the four-week season of preparation before Christmas — and the city has been doing it this way for centuries.
Walk the Christmas Markets of the Inner City
Vienna's Christmas markets open in the weeks leading up to Christmas and are at their most atmospheric during Advent. The first Sunday of Advent falls in late November or early December, so the markets are in full swing during your visit. Each market has its own character, and you can move between them on foot in the inner districts.
- Christkindlmarkt on Rathausplatz — the largest and most famous, set in front of the neo-Gothic Rathaus (City Hall). Expect rows of wooden stalls, a large illuminated Christmas tree, and a programme of seasonal events. The park in front of the Rathaus is transformed into a market village with lights strung through the trees.
- Weihnachtsmarkt on the Freyung — a smaller, more traditional market in the inner city, known for crafts, glass ornaments and a quieter pace than Rathausplatz.
- Altwiener Christkindlmarkt on the Freyung — a market with a focus on old-Viennese traditions, including nativity scenes and handmade goods.
- Weihnachtsmarkt at Schönbrunn Palace — set in the courtyard in front of the palace, with the baroque façade as a backdrop and stalls selling crafts and food.
- Weihnachtsmarkt at Belvedere Palace — a smaller market in front of the Upper Belvedere, with a view of the palace and the garden.
- Weihnachtsmarkt on the Spittelberg — a market in the narrow streets of the Spittelberg quarter, known for arts and crafts and a neighbourhood feel.
At any of these, you can buy Glühwein (mulled wine), Punsch (hot punch), roasted chestnuts, baked apples, and Lebkuchen (gingerbread). The markets typically open in the morning and stay open into the evening.
Hear Advent Music in Vienna's Churches and Concert Halls
Advent is a season of music in Vienna, and the first Sunday is no exception. The city's churches and concert venues host performances of Advent and Christmas music throughout the season.
- Stephansdom — the cathedral in the centre of Vienna holds Advent concerts and organ recitals. The cathedral's choir and organ are part of the city's musical life, and Advent is a particularly active time. Check the cathedral's programme for dates and times.
- Musikverein — the home of the Vienna Philharmonic hosts Advent concerts and seasonal programmes in December. The building on Bösendorferstraße is one of the world's great concert halls.
- Konzerthaus — the Wiener Konzerthaus also programmes Advent and Christmas concerts, including performances of Bach's Christmas Oratorio and other seasonal works.
- Vienna Boys' Choir — the Wiener Sängerknaben perform Advent and Christmas concerts, often in the Burgkapelle of the Hofburg and other venues. Their Advent concerts are a long-standing Viennese tradition.
Many churches in the inner city hold Advent services and musical devotions on the first Sunday. The sound of the organ and choir in a baroque church is one of the defining experiences of Advent in Vienna.
Join the Advent Celebrations in the Streets and Squares
The first Sunday of Advent is a day of public celebration in Vienna. The city's streets and squares fill with people, and there are events across the inner districts.
- Advent on the Rathausplatz — the opening of the Christkindlmarkt is marked with ceremonies and performances. The square in front of the Rathaus is the focal point of the city's Advent celebrations.
- Advent in the inner city — the Graben, Kohlmarkt and Kärntner Straße are decorated with lights, and the streets are busy with shoppers and visitors throughout Advent. The lights are switched on in the weeks before the first Sunday.
- Advent concerts in churches — many churches in the inner city hold Advent concerts and services on the first Sunday. These are often free or low-cost and open to the public.
- Advent markets in the neighbourhoods — beyond the inner city, districts such as Spittelberg, Neubau and others hold their own Advent markets, often with a more local character.
The first Sunday of Advent is not a public holiday in Austria, but it is a day of celebration and family gatherings. Shops in the inner city are open during Advent, and the markets are busy from morning until evening.
Eat and Drink Your Way Through Advent
Advent in Vienna has its own seasonal food and drink, and the markets are the best place to try them. You will find these at stalls across the city throughout the season.
- Glühwein — mulled wine, served hot in mugs. You pay a deposit for the mug and get it back when you return it.
- Punsch — hot punch, often made with rum or fruit. There are many varieties, including orange and berry.
- Maroni — roasted chestnuts, sold from street stands and market stalls. The smell of roasting chestnuts is one of the signatures of Advent in Vienna.
- Lebkuchen — gingerbread, often decorated and sold at market stalls. It is a traditional Advent and Christmas treat.
- Bratwurst and other sausages — grilled sausages are a staple of the markets, often served with bread and mustard.
- Kaiserschmarrn — shredded pancake, sometimes served at market stalls and in cafés during Advent.
- Baked apples — often filled with marzipan or nuts, sold at market stalls.
For a sit-down meal, Vienna's cafés and restaurants serve seasonal dishes during Advent. Traditional Viennese cafés are a good place to warm up with a coffee and a slice of cake after a morning at the markets.
Make a Day of It: The Inner City on Foot
The first Sunday of Advent is a good day to explore the inner city on foot, moving between the markets, churches and squares. Start at Stephansdom, where you can hear the bells and see the cathedral decorated for Advent. Walk through the Graben and Kohlmarkt, where the lights are on and the streets are busy. Continue to the Hofburg, the former imperial palace, and the nearby markets. In the afternoon, head to the Rathausplatz for the Christkindlmarkt, and stay into the evening when the lights are at their best. If you have time, take the U-Bahn to Schönbrunn or Belvedere for the markets there. The inner city is compact and walkable, and the U-Bahn and trams make it easy to reach the outer markets.
Vienna's Advent season runs from the first Sunday of Advent until Christmas Eve. The first Sunday of Advent in 2026 falls on 29 November. The markets are open throughout this period, and the city is at its most festive in the weeks leading up to Christmas. If you want to experience the start of the season, plan your visit for the first weekend of Advent, when the lights go on, the markets open, and the city begins its celebration.